Leaving everything behind to become an oriental dancer in Egypt

We have been following Maïssane NARJIS's career as an oriental dancer and teacher in France for several years, and have already met her twice for fascinating articles on Iraqi dance and the feelings of Bellydancers during the difficult period of Covid-19. She is coming back today with a new story and very concrete answers on practicing the profession in the flagship country of oriental dance: Egypt. True to herself, she gives us with authenticity, accuracy, kindness and extreme generosity, tons of information so you can make the right decisions whether or not you decide to take the plunge! Rare responses, filled with sharing and solidarity that challenge preconceived ideas about competition and the withholding of information, sometimes felt to be too present among professional oriental dancers.

An experienced and renowned oriental dancer and teacher in France, what motivated you to leave aside what you had undertaken and acquired until then to make a living from Bellydance in our country, to try this incredible adventure abroad in the cradle of oriental dance?

When I took this opportunity to go to Egypt to dance, it had been almost 2 years since I had put my oriental dance activity on hold. Following the Covid, which had greatly weakened the artistic and events sector, I felt the need to suspend my Bellydance classes and performances. Then I started to miss dancing, but I didn't necessarily want to return to my job in the same form as in the past. Basically, I wasn't enthusiastic about the idea of ​​returning to teaching and, above all, starting from scratch. I felt like I had "done it all" as an oriental dance teacher and wanted to face new challenges. I wanted to dance more for myself and explore the extent of my potential. When I received this expatriation offer, I had no ties in France and it was easy to leave overnight.

What did you do to find an employer in Egypt? What are the legal and procedural requirements for working in this country? Are there any similarities and differences with working under an employment contract in France?

This offer literally fell into my lap at the right time. It was a twist of fate! This one was submitted to me through someone I knew and collaborated with on an event in Toulouse several years ago. She remembered me very well, followed my progress on social media, and believed I was the best person for this offer. One of her friends is a businesswoman who runs a production company in Egypt and the USA and who was looking for a professional oriental dancer for a hotel in Sharm el Sheikh at that time.
I quickly accepted and signed the contract, then I started all the procedures to be ready so I could leave within a month. Honestly, I had never considered the idea of ​​going dancing in Egypt...
Regarding the administrative procedures to work in Egypt, the employing company is supposed to provide the Visa as well as the Work permit. In fact, it depends on the agency you deal with. Some respect this point more or less...
Furthermore, it's important to know that there is no social security coverage like in France. Which means there's no protection in the event of an incident or breach of contract.  

Let's be frank, because this is obviously an essential selection criterion: Is it financially attractive? What are the advantages and disadvantages compared to France?

No, compared to salaries in France it's clearly not financially attractive. It's important to understand that the standard of living in Egypt is much lower than in Europe, with average salaries well below $1,000 per month. If your main motivation is money, this is not the best option and you will be better paid in France. On the other hand, the standard of living in Egypt is low for a European, so it is quite possible to live well with "not much".
Especially since most agencies include housing and all hotel accommodations in their contracts. This means your salary is your "pocket money" since you have no expenses while you're there. This is what's really interesting.
Many oriental dancers imagine that performing on a boat in Egypt is the ultimate dream. The reality is that this type of service is very poorly paid (only $9 per 30-minute show). However, unlike France, performances are not concentrated solely on the weekend. Therefore you can dance all week, at a rate of 2 to 3 shows per evening or more, and if it is high season, do it during the day. The possibility of multiplying the fees allow you then to do well.
In any case, if money and security are very important to you, you will be better off in Europe. I went to Egypt for adventure and covered my back by putting money aside.  

When it comes to local customs, what comparison can you make between practicing this job in France and in Egypt?

Apart from the rhythm and frequency of performances, which are different as mentioned above; in the practice of oriental dance itself, the shows' format is rather opposite. For example, in Europe, the dancer performs short passages of 5 to 10 minutes. In Egypt, the Bellydancer stays on stage for 30 minutes, sometimes for up to an hour.  
The emphasis is on the dancer's ability to entertain and interact with her audience. Egyptians are more sensitive to attitude/charisma, to the "dalaa" aspect as they call it, than to the technique.
The difference also lies in the interactions with the audience, since the Arab public has a real cultural understanding of oriental dance and music. It's amazing because the audience will spontaneously sing and dance with you, and so give you some crazy energy.
Please note that there are no Bellydance shows during Ramadan in Cairo. In Sharm el-Sheikh, you can work during this period because it's a tourist area with mostly foreigners, but business is less dynamic during this month. You have to wait for the Eid celebrations for the season to resume.
In terms of everyday life, oriental dance is everywhere, in party venues, on television, in music videos... Some Bellydancers are even elevated to the rank of national stars (Dina, Fifi Abdou and more recently Johara or Safinar). But there is a very deep paradox: oriental dancers are simultaneously adored, despised and hated. Many Egyptians attend Bellydance shows with their families, from grandchildren to grandparents. They even cheer you on during your performance. However, it would be unthinkable for them that a woman in their family become an oriental dancer because this activity conveys a sulphurous and disrespectable image. When you live here, it is therefore not good to tell your grocer, your neighbors, or strangers that you are a Bellydancer...
Finally, even though this is a global construction that doesn't only concern Egypt, there is a strong patriarchal system in the entertainment industry. Managers are all men and have a monopoly on contracts with hotels, nightclubs... So oriental dancers "have to" report to these managers, and it is difficult to break free from them.  

Beyond the incomparable and rewarding experience you are living, what doubts, fears, and difficulties have you faced and how did you overcome them?

I would say that the first source of culture shock for a European in Egypt is the disorganization...! Egyptians really put me through this and I had to develop a quality that was absolutely not natural for me: Patience!
Next, the constant instability. Since there's no security, nothing is guaranteed. So you have to expect anything, especially in the events industry. Things can change very quickly, for the better or for the worse. One day you can be working and dancing, everything going great, and the next day everything changes, without this having anything to do with your skills or your personality. A contract doesn't protect you, and you shouldn't trust words.
Finally, many managers aren't looking for an oriental dancer or an artist, but rather for a body. Some of their criteria are sometimes inappropriate, vulgar, and ridiculous. This point can destabilize many women because it affects their self-esteem. But, other people will recognize your talent, beauty, soul, and it is, of course, on these that you must focus. In my opinion, the best way to get through these ups and downs is to be philosophical and believe in yourself, in life and in your dreams so as not to let yourself be demoralized. Humility and resilience will also help you bounce back.
I would also add that it's very important not to be alone in the country and have contacts and people you trust there who have a real understanding of the environment and can provide you with compassionate support.

Conversely, what satisfactions, surprises and prides have you experienced?

I am proud to have left everything overnight to live this priceless experience. Initially, I was only supposed to stay for six months, and a year later, I got an apartment, and I'm still here! I would never have believed it! I've learned a lot, not only about oriental dance, but also about myself, others, and life in general.
I'm particularly happy to dance every day. It's a simple pleasure, but as long as I'm dancing, I feel alive and radiant.
Here, I learned how to put together a 30-minute show, to understand the expectations of this new audience, to improvise and adapt to all situations, even when the DJ decides to do as he pleases and play music I've never heard of in my life! But that's what dancing is, it's a momentum, a spontaneous feeling! The watchword is "yalla, be ready"!
I feel good in Egypt because it is a population with incredible culture and history, as well as great generosity. Egyptians also have a rare sensitivity and artistic subtlety. I was also surprised by the kindness with which I was welcomed, they make you feel like one of their own so that you carry their country in your heart. Of course, you will sometimes meet some unscrupulous people, but the good ones will exceed all your expectations.

Would you recommend this experience to French or European oriental dancers? What qualities and strengths do you think are necessary to try expatriation?

My advise is for everyone to follow their dreams and pursue the opportunities life throws their way. In this context, as long as you have a deep love for dance but also feet on the ground and you don't idealize the experience but accept the good and the bad, you can resist adversity! In conclusion, observe, learn, stay aligned with your values, and cultivate your inner spark!